Azores, Portugal
São Miguel Island
Introduction: Why the Azores?
While everyone is shoulder to shoulder in their lemon print dresses in Positano, paying 20 euro for a drink in Mykonos, or clutching their cross-body bag in Barcelona out of fear of being pickpocketed, there are a cluster of islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean — nine to be exact. While tourism exists here, it's about a fraction of the crowd the blown-up influencer hotspots seem to have. There's a lushness equal to Hawaii, secret beaches, hot springs, kind locals with a great sense of humor, and a small number of transplants who came to contribute to the islands, not take from them. This paradise is the Azores, Portugal.
I had heard of the Azores here and there, but they never really took priority for me. If it weren't for my close friend Evan and his family inviting me on their family vacation there, I'm not sure I ever would have gone. As it turns out, I would now put the Azores in at least my top three favorite destinations I've ever visited. Evan's family hails from Fall River, Massachusetts — often referred to as the 10th island of the Azores, as many descendants from the islands migrated there.
Arrival in Ponta Delgada — Evening
Upon arriving in São Miguel, we had a chill evening settling in. That night we went out to a bar called Resvesh Street Bar in Ponta Delgada. I would come back to visit the Azores simply to go to this bar alone.
Day 2: Ponta Delgada, Blue & Green Lakes, and the Abandoned Hotel
Evan and I woke up late after a great evening at our new favorite bar. Roaming the streets of Ponta Delgada looking for a later breakfast, we stumbled upon one of the only open spots — a Greek restaurant that ended up being incredible. The food was fresh and the service was amazing.
After breakfast, we picked up our rental car and headed to the Blue and Green Lakes. The drive alone was stunning — and then we hit what are known as the Dream Roads. I couldn't fathom how it could get more beautiful, and then my mind was absolutely blown.
Highlight: Montpalas Abandoned Hotel
Our next stop was the abandoned Montpalas Hotel, perched at the top of a peak with incredible views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Blue and Green Lakes. The hotel opened in 1989 and closed just 18 months later in 1990. At its peak it had 88 rooms, restaurants, a bar, a club, a bank, and hairdressers. It closed due to insufficient guest volume and was ultimately abandoned. You can walk right into the front entrance and explore the rooms covered in graffiti. The elevator shaft looking down into pitch black was the creepiest part — but the rooftop views made it completely worth it.
Day 3: Furnas — Terra Nostra Park
We drove out to Furnas to visit Terra Nostra Park. Hot springs you can swim in, beautiful gardens to walk through — a truly incredible experience best appreciated through visuals.
That evening, dinner featured lapas (limpets) and red snapper for the first time — both delicious. Drinks afterwards led to late-night McDonald's, continuing the tradition of trying the local McDonald's menu in every country visited.
Day 4: Idonia Farm Dinner & The Gin Library
Idonia — Chef Pete Luckett's Farm & Garden
One of the favorite experiences of the entire trip. Idonia is a hotel/villa/resort owned by Chef Pete Luckett — originally from the UK, later moved to Canada, hosted a cooking and food TV show there, and became friends with Chef Ludo from Brittany, France. Pete bought land in São Miguel, created a working farm and garden, and now he and Chef Ludo offer immersive dining experiences. After a garden tour, they prepared a four-to-five course meal from the farm. The food was exquisite — fresh, beautifully presented, and unforgettable. A wine tasting rounded out the experience.
The Gin Library
Discovered through ChatGPT when asking about unexpected things to do in São Miguel — and it completely delivered. The Gin Library is owned by a British man named Ollie who has visited over 100 countries and tasted gin all over the world. The library houses over 2,000 gin bottles. Their signature trade-off program lets visitors bring a craft gin from home and exchange it for one of Ollie's gins made with Azorean botanicals. A percentage of each bottle purchase goes to the Ocean Azores Foundation supporting ocean conservation. Ollie also runs a workshop teaching how to make the perfect gin and tonic — covering glass type, tonic selection, ice size, and garnish.
That night ended with an unexpected highlight: a Japanese restaurant with an anime-themed interior, neon lights, and incredibly fresh sushi — followed by a final visit to Resvesh Street Bar.
Last Day: Secret Beach
Moving slow on the final morning, Evan and I finally made it to a beach — recommended by a bartender from the night before. The beach name is intentionally kept private to preserve it, though the exact location is shared via Substack. Small, perfect, and tucked away — the kind of secret cove the Azores are full of. The water was crisp and refreshing. A small rock with a built-in ladder to climb up and jump from made it feel like a scene from a movie. The kind of place that feels too good to be true.
Closing Reflections
A big thank you to Evan and his family for the invitation. There were moments leading up to the trip when canceling seemed likely — stress about time off, finances — but everything worked out. The Azores opened up something. Somewhere so perfect yet gentle. Gentle feels like the right word for São Miguel specifically. If the fountain of youth exists, it's in São Miguel.
Evan and I are already planning a return. There are spots we didn't have time for and the other eight islands still to explore. If you want an escape where you feel like you're being brought back to life — not moved like cattle through an overpopulated tourist destination — visit the Azores. Be respectful of the land and the people, kind and patient in all interactions, and savor every experience.
Quick Reference: Spots Mentioned
Resvesh Street Bar: Ponta Delgada — Favorite bar of the trip; would return just for this.
Greek Restaurant (unnamed): Ponta Delgada — Late breakfast/early lunch, fresh food, excellent service.
The Dream Roads: En route to the Blue and Green Lakes — scenic drive that defies expectations.
Blue and Green Lakes (Sete Cidades): São Miguel — Iconic twin crater lakes.
Montpalas Abandoned Hotel: Hilltop peak — Opened 1989, closed 1990. Exploreable ruins with stunning views.
Terra Nostra Park: Furnas — Hot springs and botanical gardens.
Idonia: Farm/garden restaurant — Chef Pete Luckett & Chef Ludo. Multi-course farm-to-table dining + wine tasting.
The Gin Library: São Miguel — 2,000+ gins, trade-off program, gin & tonic workshop. Owner: Ollie.
Japanese Restaurant (unnamed): Anime-themed, neon-lit interior, fresh sushi.
Secret Beach: Location shared on Substack only — small, private cove with a climbable rock.